Gusto Big Tastes at the Bighorn Grill Skip took one of the greatest risks of his life when he decided to purchase Bighorn Grill. Nearly 11 years later, the restaurant has become the epitome of contemporary American cuisine. June 2007

Andrea Stuart

Skip, the owner of Bighorn Grill in San Ramon, insists he should probably be sitting back with a Mai Tai right now, enjoying retirement. Instead, he finds himself waking in the wee hours of the morning most days as he continues to manage two successful restaurants and a catering company called Pampered Palate. This may seem like a chore to some, but Skip would just as soon die wearing a chef’s coat.

As a young man who obtained an MBA from Dartmouth, Skip spent much of his 20s jetting from city to city as a corporate businessman, living the so-called good life. However, through the influence of attorney friends, Skip decided to apply to Hastings Law school and by 1982 he obtained his law degree and became a lawyer. However, during his first year as an attorney he learned law was not his passion. That is when he called his friend and former roommate, Frank Ambrosio, owner of Frankie, Johnny, and Luigi’s, and asked for a job as a waiter.

“This is all a true story. I went from flying in Lear jets to waiting tables. It was as if something was guiding me through my life,” Skip commented.

Before long, Skip found himself learning the ropes and making a career for himself in the restaurant industry. In just a few short years he went from being a waiter to managing four of Ambrosio’s restaurants throughout the San Francisco Bay Area, assisting with restaurant remodels, and helping with expansion plans.

All things must come to an end, Skip left Frankie, Johnny, and Luigi’s in 1993 and began considering starting a restaurant of his own. He found a location in Pleasanton and opened his first restaurant in 1994, named Girasole.

Girasole became successful enough that Skip considered expanding into a new area in 1995. That was when he learned of an opportunity to purchase the Bighorn Grill.

The restaurant had only been around for about a year when it was put up for sale. Skip was determined to convert the restaurant into an eating place for everyone to enjoy, ambiance and all. Muted, horn-accented chandelier lights hang from the ceiling as big horned sheep and a large buffalo head garnish the walls. The dark timber of the walls, floors, and much of the furniture add an elegant yet rustic appeal which complements the menu.

Much of the menu was originally created with Girasole in mind. Girasole’s signature Tuscan pork and Absolut! Prawns dishes separate Bighorn Grill from the typical chophouse. In fact, it is the variety of the menu that makes Bighorn such a desirable restaurant for any kind of taste, whether vegetarian or carnivore.

The Scoozzi appetizer is a must for the garlic lover. It is pocket bread filled with Gorgonzola and green onion, rubbed in fresh garlic, and served with a side of fresh tomato basil fresco, which is spooned into each individual pocket.

Steak lovers are given a large array of choices — from rib eye and prime rib, to baby back ribs. The prime rib, one of the staff’s favorite dishes, is smoked, cooked over mesquite, and served with zesty horseradish.

The succulent ribs are slow smoked then braised in bay leaves and herbs so that the flavors are locked into the meat. Not only does the tender meat slip right off the bone, but the pork retains a dramatic flavor.

The ribs are a personal favorite of mine. So much so that when Skip and his staff catered my wedding reception in 2002, the ribs were among the main dishes offered.

For diners who prefer a lighter meal there are plenty of savory choices as well. The Pacific Rim Salad provides a perfect entrÈe for the lighter eater and is made with Hoisin marinated chicken breast, Napa cabbage, bell peppers, roasted cashews, carrots, green onion, rice noodles, and topped with ginger soy vinaigrette.

The mouth watering Absolut! Prawns is an ideal dish for those who enjoy pasta in cream sauce. The dish contains corkscrew pasta and is tossed with sautÈed prawns, green onions, and sun dried tomatoes. It is presented in a hot pepper vodka cream sauce.

Let’s not forget the equally alluring desserts. For traditional taste buds that enjoy a little pizzazz, the CrËme Brulee is a must. The cup is plated with a rich raspberry sauce so each bite can be accented with a fruity flare.

For those seeking a little down home comfort, the moist Sour Dough Apple Bread Pudding is a must. And finally, the Bananas Foster provides the perfect delight after a satisfying meal. A visit to this lodge-like restaurant will provide you with enough reasons to return without any convincing on my part.

“I got into the restaurant business for personal gratification,” Skip told me. “It’s the only reason to do it. When I see a customer smile and thank me for a pleasant meal I am motivated to keep going.”

“If you have it in your heart, you will succeed,” Skip concluded as he grinned from ear to ear.

Bighorn Grill
2410 San Ramon Valley Blvd.
San Ramon 925-838-5678