Playing it Safe Walking With Dogs Advice and Principles for Guarding Your Family’s Well-being August 2006

by Jacqueline Irwin with Holly S. Brand

In the 18 years between 1979 and 1996 dog attacks resulted in the deaths of 340 people in the United States. The headlines only tell about the worst incidences such as the mauling of Shawn Jones in Richmond or the fatal attack of Diane Whipple in San Francisco. These cases have drawn public attention and outrage, and the demand for improved methods of dealing with dogs that are loose is constantly on the front burner.

We’ve all been informed about what to do in the event of a mountain lion or a bear encounter, but how many of us have actually been threatened by either of these? After all, you are hundreds of times more likely to be bit by a dog than by a wild animal. Only one person a year, or so, are killed by either a bear or a mountain lion. Many of you know how to respond to a threat by one of those wild animals, but what would you do if threatened by a dog?

I have had some close calls with dogs and once was actually bitten on the hand. Since that encounter even normally harmless, docile creatures instantly read my body language and take the dominant roll. Recently, at school, at my pick-up loop duty, for example, as I loaded a student into his car the family dog began viciously barking at me. The driver of the vehicle acted dumbfounded and said the dog had never behaved like that before. So what is it about me that dogs know I’m an easy target?

In addition, I’m an avid walker and have had more than my share of run-ins with dogs that are loose. I decided to get advice. I consulted Holly Brand, a local dog trainer and expert on dog behavior.

Holly has a way of getting dogs to do what she wants. She was one of those people who knew what they wanted to do with their lives at a very tender age. In fact, nickels began rolling in when she charged the neighbor kids to watch her dogs perform tricks she had taught them. As a teen she secured her first real job at a pet store. It was there that she heard a customer inquiring about dog training services. Holly spoke up and got her first training job. When she arrived for work she found exasperated owners with small children and a big, bouncy German shepherd chained to a tree. At the end of several weeks of training she had happy owners and a well-mannered dog.

Holly later gathered more valuable experiences dealing with animals at a veterinarian hospital. Then she attended Foothill College and in 1991 graduated from the Vet Tech Program with a degree that qualifies her as an Animal Health Technician. In 1997 she began studying and training at the Ohio National K-9 Training School for Dogs and graduated as a Master Certified Dog Trainer equipped to train dogs for agility, scent discrimination, search and rescue, handicapped assistant support work, puppy management, personal protection/attack on command, police K-9 work, and advanced obedience and behavior.

The general information contained in this article will help you when walking alone to make the best possible choices in the event of a dog encounter. Each scenario can vary in many ways and each situation can change to a different scenario in a matter of seconds depending upon your reactions.

Be Prepared
Before leaving the house, equip your pocket with a bag of doggie treats. Look around while out walking. Some wise people, if they spot a dog up ahead, will immediately make a U-turn and avoid the situation. If you are determined to stay on your path and approach a dog, first assess the dog, assess the situation, and then take action.

Assess Body Language: Whether Friendly, Cautious, or Aggressive
A friendly dog might jog up to you with loose body language and tail wagging. The ears may be perched back and his/her eyes may be squinted like they’re smiling. They may also pant and perhaps do some verbal talking.

Cautious or fearful dogs often demonstrate low body language. They may show signs of submission such as a low wiggle, their ears may either be perched or pinned back, and they may smile with the upper lip tucked up. Nervousness may cause a tendency for such dogs to sneeze. They may not necessarily come at you but can show interest in coming toward you.

If this type of dog is approached it may demonstrate submissive urination or retreat. If it does retreat don’t approach it. This type of dog may also grumble, which sounds like a whine mixed with a growl. Such a dog might also do a submissive rollover and expose its belly or repeatedly charge and retreat. This type of dog can display all these behaviors in less than one minute.

A confident, aggressive dog might look, at first, like a friendly dog. This type of dog has straight body language, with ears perched forward or pinned back as if there is a goal in mind. And they aren’t usually panting.

Panting is indicative of a relaxed happy-go-lucky dog. A dog that is focused will “suck up” and not pant. More obvious signs are assertive barking, bared teeth, frozen body language, and a posture that is perched in one position.

What changes the scenario with the cautious or aggressive dog is the reaction of the person encountering the dog.

Take Action
If a dog shows obvious signs of being friendly, you may pet him and talk puppy talk telling him he’s a good dog, etc. Always stand sideways. To a dog a sideways stand denotes neutral body language. A front facing stance denotes dominance so always approach any dog in a neutral, sideways position. Pet the dog low on the chest; never pet dogs above the muzzle plane. A dog can misinterpret petting above the muzzle as a display of dominance since dogs portray dominance by pressing on other dogs’ muzzles or withers. If you don’t want to pet the dog, keep walking while acting as normal and calm as possible.

When dealing with a cautious dog use the same routine as with a friendly dog by talking puppy to him. Continue walking and sprinkling treats in the opposite direction of your path. If you are inclined to pet or give this dog attention then stand sideways, act relaxed, and ask the dog to sit. Praise him, but don’t lean toward the dog. Sprinkle more treats and offer your hand out but don’t reach toward the dog.

Dogs who tend to be more friendly than fearful will warm up fast. For dogs that tend to be more fearful, walk away confidently but with caution. True fear-biters tend to bite the backside including the buttocks or the back or the calves.

That biting behavior tends to build a dog’s confidence over time. This type of dog won’t bite you while you’re facing them so walk away sideways until you’re a comfortable distance away.

The aggressive dog is a big concern when walking in a family friendly community. Many families own dogs and dogs tend to guard their territory. A dog with a job may not be friendly toward strangers. When approached by an aggressive dog do not run. Once your back is turned you become an instant target for an aggressive dog, who is possibly very confident, and is running on four legs – twice as many as you have – to reach you, the intended target. Running is recommended only when you can get into a house or a safe environment.

Two Scenarios
When a dog is on its own property, walk to the other side of the street or turn around and go in the opposite direction. Place as much distance between you and the dog as possible.

If a situation presents itself suddenly and you are armed with treats, ask the dog if he wants a treat using the most entertaining voice you have. The dog will either have a stronger food drive or aggressive drive. You must hope that the food drive is stronger. Scatter treats as discussed before. Tell the dog to stay and move away without turning your back toward the animal.

If you’re not armed with treats, stand sideways with your weakest arm towards the dog. Scold the dog. Tell it, “No. Sit.” Give stern commands. If the dog halts, continue giving the commands and walk sideways away from the dog. If the dog does what you ask, change your tone and speak gently as you leave the scene.

When confronted by a dog, where treats aren’t working or the dog is not responding, stand sideways with your legs slightly apart, placing your weight on the heel opposite to the dog. Most large dogs will lunge at you with a jump. Protect yourself with your weakest arm. Most small breed dogs will tend to go after the leg. In either case you are much better off standing your ground than flailing or trying to out maneuver the dog. If the dog gets hold of your leg, try to swing him into something, bouncing him off of a car or fence. If the dog is attached to your arm, try to lift him off the ground. The more traction a dog has the harder he can bite.

The more physically and verbally out of control you are, the worse an attack can become. Due to the natural prey/predator drive, any screaming by the prey is usually elicited from a pain response and can feed the attack drive making the situation worse.

The attack is more likely to end if you are able to fight back and show confidence. Call for help. If the dog stops attacking, try to regain control of the situation by yelling commands to the dog such as, “Go home,” and “Get back!”

We’ve presented general information that can help you to make good choices in confronting a dog. Each scenario can vary and change from a controlled situation to an out of control situation in a matter of seconds. Be prepared and informed.°

Holly S. Brand owns West Coast K-9 Training and can be reached at 925-516-1652.